How to Test Gold at Home
5 methods used by dealers, collectors, and pawn shops — from quick free checks to the industry-standard acid test.
5 Gold Testing Methods
Hallmark Check
Check the piece for karat stamps: 10k, 14k, 18k, 22k, 24k, or fineness marks (417, 585, 750, 916, 999). On rings, look inside the band. On necklaces and bracelets, check the clasp area. On earrings, check the post.
Genuine gold hallmarks are stamped cleanly into the metal. Look for crisp edges — not fuzzy, smeared, or raised markings, which can indicate a fake or a low-quality replica stamp.
Limitation: Stamps can be faked. A hallmark alone doesn't confirm gold — it should be one of several checks.
Magnet Test
Hold a strong rare-earth magnet (not a refrigerator magnet) close to the item. Real gold is non-magnetic — it will not be attracted to the magnet at all.
If the piece is attracted to the magnet, it is not gold. It contains iron or another ferrous metal.
If it is NOT attracted, the piece might be gold — or it could be another non-magnetic metal such as aluminum, copper, brass, or silver. This test eliminates obvious fakes but cannot confirm genuine gold. Always combine with other tests.
Float Test
Drop the item into a glass of water. Real gold, being extremely dense (19.3 g/cm³ — one of the densest metals), sinks immediately and firmly to the bottom.
A fake gold item made of lighter metals may sink more slowly, float partially, or behave differently.
Limitations: Gold-plated items may also sink convincingly. Hollow items (like hollow chains) may float or sink unpredictably regardless of gold content. Small pieces are hard to evaluate accurately. This test is not reliable on its own.
Skin Discoloration Test
Rub the item firmly on clean, dry skin (the inside of your arm works well). Real gold leaves no mark or stain on skin. Base metals — copper, brass, nickel — leave green, black, or dark discoloration.
Why this test is unreliable: Gold-plated items (which look like gold but have only a thin surface layer) will also pass this test, leaving no mark, because the outer surface is genuinely gold. This test mainly reveals items with no gold content at all.
Body chemistry also varies — some people react more strongly to trace metals than others.
Acid Test Kit
Purchase a gold acid test kit for ~$15–$30. Most kits include nitric acid solutions calibrated for different karats (10k, 14k, 18k, 22k) and a black touchstone.
Procedure: Make a small scratch on the back of the piece to expose the interior metal. Rub it across the touchstone. Apply the corresponding karat acid solution to the streak on the stone.
Reactions: 10k gold turns light yellow-brown. 14k holds its color. 18k shows minimal reaction. 24k shows almost no reaction. Base metal turns green immediately. Gold-plated items reveal base metal under the surface layer.
This is the most common quick-test method used by coin dealers, pawn shops, and jewelry buyers worldwide.
When to Get a Professional Assay
For pieces with significant value — a large gold chain, a collection of rings, or any piece you're considering buying — a professional assessment is worth the time.
XRF testing (X-ray fluorescence) is the gold standard for non-destructive precious metals analysis. It provides a precise elemental breakdown in seconds with no scratching or damage to the piece. Many coin dealers and gold buyers offer XRF testing free of charge when you bring items in for a purchase evaluation — use this to your advantage.
Fire assay is the most accurate method of all, but it's destructive (a small sample is consumed) and typically used only by refiners processing large lots of scrap metal. For individual jewelry pieces, XRF + acid test is the practical standard.
What Dealers Actually Use
The typical workflow at a coin shop or pawn shop when evaluating gold:
- Visual inspection — look for hallmarks, check for obvious signs of plating or wear at edges
- Electronic tester or magnet — quick non-destructive screen; electronic testers measure conductivity to estimate karat
- Acid test — applied on the touchstone if the electronic result is ambiguous or for verification
- XRF scan — at higher-volume dealers and any serious gold buyer for accurate karat confirmation before making a significant offer
The combination of hallmark + acid test is the baseline for most dealers. XRF is standard at refiners and larger coin dealers. Most pawn shops don't have XRF but will use electronic testers and acid kits.
Frequently Asked Questions
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